Finishing Steel

Most of our products are oil coated or cosmetically coated when shipped. Remove all coatings with a proper solvent, sand or etch all metal before priming or painting.

Finishing Fiberglass

The finishing of fiberglass is similar to finishing steel, but with some minor exceptions. Fiberglass parts should be thoroughly wiped down with a silicone wax stripper, which can be obtained in most auto parts stores. Wet sand with water and a dish of laundry detergent. prime and paint as with steel.

The Case of Fiberglass

We have had no choice but to reproduce some products in fiberglass. Lower Studebaker air deflectors, '48-'52 spare tire wells and air vent shrouding would be incredibly expensive to reproduce in steel, because of the complexity of the dies necessary to produce a proper part. It is very unlikely that the aforementioned items will ever be reproduced in steel, because the volume of sales could never justify the die costs. There are considerable advantages to fiberglass that should be considered.

Fiberglass is:

* Rust corrosion and rot proof
* Impact resistant
* Natural sound deadening qualities
* Easily repaired if damaged

The installation of air scoops, vent kits, spare tire wells, and valences are the same as installing original steel panels.

Installation of Steel Floor Pans

It is generally best, when removing your original pan to leave approximately a one-inch overlap in relation to our replacement pan. Pop-rivet or metal screw the seems when proper fit is achieved. Hammer form all mating indentations together until proper appearance is achieved; weld as is appropriate. Remove fasteners and weld the holes shut. Any seam is a built-in water trap; always clean, caulk, and undercoat properly.

A General Suggestion

It may be unlikely that the car you are restoring will be your last. It might be wise to consider purchasing a wire-feed welder, which can often be obtained for less than $500. A wire-feed welder is a very impressive machine that will improve the quality of your work, while saving you considerable time as well. you can always sell your welder after the job is done for at least half the original purchase price if you wish, although we can almost guarantee that you will never part with this magic machine.

General Welding Hint (Button Welding)

Many body components were spot welded into place. Spot welding is generally difficult to impossible during restoration. A suitable and effective alternative is the "button weld", which can be achieved with either an arc or wire-feed welder. Position and metal screw or clamp the pieces together, being sure to draw down all gaps. Mark the areas you wish to button weld. Remove crews or clamps. Drill approximately 1/4" holes in the removed piece at all previously marked points. De-burr all holes, replace the panel with original screws or clamps. All pieces to be button welded must fit tightly at areas to be welded. Find the appropriate heat setting on your welder, and simply weld the hole shut starting at the center of the hole. Use a circular motion until the hole is welded flush. Remove fasteners and weld holes shut.

Good luck with your restoration project ~ Classic Enterprises